November 19, 2009

Anna’s presidential role

Photo: Ze Takahashi

It seems that Anna has new job herself. But do not worry !!! The edictatrix is not leaving Vogue.

The president Barack Obama has invited Anna Wintour to join the President’s Committee of Arts and Humanities. The committee will advise the president on how to expand the role of arts in American society and  give incentive to young artists. It might not seem a big move seen that Anna is one of the most powerful women in America, but it is a big step for the fashion history.

Usually seen as frivolous industry, contrary to what many think, fashion is actually the second industry to turn money around alone, creating millions of employments and generating billions of  dollars around the world. Nevertheless fashion is form of art and an expression of the society. It reflects our cultural and social moment in history.

To be included on a Committee of Arts, gives the fashion industry the respect and place it deserves. Let’s hope it is not only a glamorous nomination but it actually means something substancial.

Rosane Ribeiro

November 18, 2009

31, Rue de Cambon

It seems like Oliver Zahm, the editor in chief of Purple Magazine, has his hands full.

Not only he is the one co art directing the book about Carine Roitfeld, but now it appears he is involved in the first issue of the Chanel Magazine. 31, Rue de Cambon, is named after the iconic address where Coco made her fame and is still the headquarters of the brand in Paris.

The magazine is said to be in the similar lines of the YSL Manifesto, the booklet hand out in the main fashion cities with a gift (this year’s gift was a gorgeous tote bag).

As expected all Karl’s favorites are present in the issue, Lara Stone, Freja Erichen and of course Baptiste Giabiconi. The trio acted a menage a trois in the Chanel farm theme fashion show, in October.

Distributed in the Chanel stores, the magazine will feature Karl’s and Chanel world, complete with all the must haves and favorites.

Rosane Ribeiro

November 17, 2009

Carine, The book

Carine Roitfeld

Carine Roitfeld, the 55 year old, editor in chief of Vogue Paris is said to soon become a book.

Olivier Zahm, editor in chief of sexy, fashion and luxurious Purple Magazine, is working with art director Alex Wiederin on a book about Carine.

Alex has contributed as an art director to AnOther Magazine, Vogue Hommes International and 10 . From his boutique studio in NY, he has created concepts for the likes of Valentino, Cesar Paccioti, Missoni, Cerruti Jeans, Jigsaw, Yves St. Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Lanvin, Versace, Cartier and H&M.

However no details have been given yet, this is surely going to be a best seller. Join the queue girls !

Rosane Ribeiro

October 22, 2009

Ladies get ready, He is back !

Anna Dello Russo in Tom Ford's Cherry for YSL

Anna Dello Russo in Tom Ford's Cherry for YSL

Tom Ford confirmed he plans to launch a women’s collection very soon. As soon as a launch at AW2010 !

After a month of seen lots of his YSL designs have been revived by fashion editors at fashion weeks – we saw many photos of Carine Roitfeld (Vogue France) and Ana Dello Russo (Vogue Japan) – there is a relieve to learn Tom decided to get back to lady’s business.

He is looking for financing around US$50 million. He has confided his plans to WWD, “Financing is extremely expensive right now, so if we find financing in the right situation we’ll be able to start [a women’s collection] soon. If we don’t, we may have to wait a while . . . You know it will take me 18 months when I start, because [I have] to hire the team, find the factories, put everything together and then get the stores ready so there’s a place for these clothes.” If any of you out there have any spare cash, do not hesitate to contact Tom !

Desperately looking forward to his new collection.

Rosane Ribeiro

October 22, 2009

Condé Nast cutting down !

Conde Nast Building

Conde Nast Building

Anna Wintour left Paris Fashion Week earlier to work on her budget. The budget of Vogue has apparently being cut down by 25%.

This is a reflection of the poor sales numbers, smaller quantity of ad pages and the presence of management consulting company McKinsey & Co, brought into Vogue to avoid bigger losses. After the smallest September issue ever, the question was in the air: what’s next ???

Well, some answers are hot off the oven today. After almost 2 weeks of letting go of staff in Vogue, Glamour, Vanity Fair, Wired and W names have been released.

Style.com, the famous site part of the Vogue’s umbrella, will not renew the contract of its Executive Fashion Director, Candy Price, considerate “Queen of the Internet” and Senior Features Wditor, Laird Borrelli-Persson.

The lay offs at Style.com might have to do with the site being fold under the new Vogue.com site. The scary thing is, this is not it. Apparently more cuts are on the way until the end of the week. The fashion world trembles waiting for the news.

Watch this space.

Rosane Ribeiro

October 19, 2009

Make me your Cinderella !!!

Louboutin creates the real Cinderella shoe

Which little girl did not dream about being a modern Cinderella ? The girl moved from a miserable life into a palace with a prince and a happy ending, and all because of a shoe !!!

Monsieur Louboutin has got together with Piper-Heidsieck, champagne makers, to launch the crystal shoe. The idea is to bring back the ritual that thrived Parisian salons in the 1880’s, drinking champagne out of a lady’s shoe.

Piper-Heidsieck is a wine making brand that stands for extravagance e decadence. They have previously worked with other designers to created special edition products. In 2007 Viktor and Rolf designed a new bottle, flutes and buckets.

“Le Rituel” is a box set with a bottle of Piper champagne and a crystal shoe. Designed and signed by the man himself, this is not something to miss. Launched today at Selfridge’s I am sure to finally become a real world Cinderella, with the crystal shoe and everything !

Rosane Ribeiro
Le Rituel will be available for buying at Selfridge’s from the 19th October and Colette from the 26th of October.

Piper Heidsieck and Louboutin

Piper Heidsieck and Louboutin

October 2, 2009

Richard Nicoll’s news ???

Richard Nicoll's designs

Richard Nicoll's designs

Italian heritage label Cerruti announced it would disclose the name of its new womenswear designer in September. Cerruti is a high end luxury label, founded in Italy in 1881, but now based in Paris. The brand has both women’s and men’s lines. The female line for SS2010 is more feminine than usually. Tailored pieces mix the feminine with masculine lines, bringing together sexiness and sharpness.

Although there hasn’t been an official announcement, there has been talk that Richard Nicoll will be the one. The new designer will be succeeding Jean Paul Knott after his 18 months at the house.

The British designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins had his whole graduate collection bought by Dolce & Gabanna, and includes Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton on his CV. He is considered one of the most talented designers to come out of London in the last few years. So, Nicoll is sure to bring some fresh air into the traditional label with his well known use of menswear fabrics to create corseted and sculptured feminine forms.

However, WWD reported on their site that a press release for the Spring 2010 collection has credited ‘Cerruti’s design team’ for the work.

Rosane Ribeiro

October 1, 2009

The gossip in Paris

Lindsay Lohan and Ungaro's new designer Stella Archs

Emanuel Ungaro is the most talked about show right now in Paris. The gossip is that many buyers have declined his invitation to the show. This is directly connected to the maison’s decision in hiring Lindsay Lohan earlier this year as an artistic adviser.

I may not be a big of fan of the actress, but this is a bit of an over-reaction to not attend the show just because of the her presence, no ???

I will wait to see the collection before I make any judgments. Having said that, I feel it is a publicity stunt, and a very strange one for a traditional Parisian maison. I wonder what the board of directors were thinking?

However, Estrella Archs, an unknown designer is going to be signing the SS2010 collection. I can not wait to see what this is all about !

September 30, 2009

Paris Fashion Week starts and I’m back on track

Par2806300

Please do let me explain myself.

I had disappeared for a long time because I was working extremely hard for Vogue Brazil during London Fashion Week with very little time left between to watch shows, meet designers and write reviews. Despite all this, I had some very interesting interviews, including a short conversation with no other than Anna Wintour.

Having said that, nothing has been published here because I was in-between talks with a newspaper who have asked for exclusivity. That explained, let’s start talking about Paris.

Paris is the last leg of the four cities which hosts the most important fashion week capping the tour which started in New York, London, and then Milan.

Gareth Pugh opened by holding one of the most important shows of the week. Gareth is relatively new to the fashion world with this being his only second major show in Paris, at the Palais de Tokyo. He was one of the first to start the fashion revolution. Last season, in partnership with Nick Knight’s team, he presented his collection on film. Pugh set the trend of using presentations in place of catwalks.

With a front row to make any big designer jealous, he hosted Rihanna, Rick Owens, Daphne Guinness, Mario Testino, and many more.

His usual black and white palette has instead been replaced by greys (Why do the British love greys so much?). Everything seemed softer than Pugh’s famous hard edges. The grey mohawk headdresses were a show stopper and set the vibe. Menswear and womenswear were combined in one show. Zombie-esque. Androgynous. Gareth Pugh stayed loyal to his style.

Shredded dresses,  slashed trousers, tailored pieces. Gareth is still very desirable.

As expected, Paris Fashion Week started in style !

Rosane Ribeiro

Par2806325

September 18, 2009

LFW starts

LFW PLAN

LFW PLAN

Housed in one of the most beautiful building in London, LFW starts today. Set against the stunning beauty of Somerset House, the black, shiny tent of the British Fashion Council will host most of the catwalk shows and will be the home of international fashionistas for the next 6 days. So the is pressure on.

I will be in loco for the next few days. Having just arrived at the BFC lounge, where we are supposed to be working from, I find out that there are no power points. So my computer battery is not going to last forever is it ?

I am still trying to get everything together and make things work. Despite people not knowing anything I ask them, they are still extremely polite and try to help me and find solutions.

Rosane Ribeiro